Cheap Charlie CC Franklin 120 motor won't run

My Cheap Charlie pellet stove motor wont run. I had an auger jam and cleared that but the motor won't run now. I took the motor off and made a test pigtail and plugged it in and the motor works fine. Need help diagnosing the problem. Thank you.

Hello
I have worked on Cheap Charlie stoves and I found that the auger is threaded and there is a set screw that goes into the auger and presses against the shaft of the auger motor. The problem with this design is that the set screw strips out very easily. Then the auger motor slips when turning the auger causing many auger jams.
Fortunately this problem was solved in the Glow Boy and Pelpro limes by employing a Heavy steel Collar with a longer set screw with enough torque to prevent this slippage from ever happening. The best part is that the Pelpro auger and steel collar will fit your stove and we carry them in stock. Please check and see if this is your case.
Thanks
See upgraded parts below:
Auger collar
https://www.eastcoasthearth.com/products/pelpro-glow-boy-ks-5010-1021-lock-collar-5-8?_pos=6&_sid=6e3c31a73&_ss=r
Auger kit
https://www.eastcoasthearth.com/products/auger-shaft-pelpro-glowboy-ks-5010-1020?_pos=4&_sid=6e3c31a73&_ss=r
See pic below:
Old auger on right with set screw
Upgraded auger on left with large hole for steel collar and long set screw

Don, thanks for your reply. Ordering the upgraded auger is something I would consider. After removing the motor, I discovered the auger jam and was able to clear it so the auger turns freely. However, after testing the motor off of the stove I noticed it is working fine. When I plug the motor back into the stove without connecting it to the auger it does not work. The auger cycle light cycles on and off correctly but the motor does not come on. I suspect something else is not working correctly. Could it be one or both of the high/low limit switches or the circuit board. If so, is there a way to test these parts. Thanks. Bernie

Hello
Yes, you are correct that if the auger does not get power from the circuit board then it could be a bad
Hi Limit snap disc
Or
Vacuum Switch
Or
Control panel.
You can test the 2 switches above one at a time by pulling the 2 wires off each switch and connecting these wires together to bypass the switch. Only do this with the stove unplugged and make sure these wires do not touch the body of the stove.
If the auger turns then the switch is bad.
If you bypass both switches and the auger does not turn it is a bad control panel.

Thanks so much for the information. I will try this and let you know what happens.
Bernie

Hello Don. I am trying to determine which switch is which to test. I have included 3 photos that I hope will help. First photo shows 2 switches on the silver panel, one above the other. the second photo shows a switch on the side of the exhaust tube. the third photo shows the black, round switch with the white tube attached which I assume is the vacuum switch. Which switches in the other photos do I need to test and which switch is which, high or low limit? Thanks for any assistance you can provide. Bernie

Hello
In your 1st pic the top switch is the Hi Limit that cuts power to the auger if the stove overheats and then automatically resets. If it is defective the auger will stop feeding pellets.
The bottom switch is the high fan switch which turns the room blower to high if the stove gets hot.
In the 2nd pic is the low limit or proof of fire switch that turns the room blower on when the stove heats up and off after the stove turns off when the stove cools down.
The 3rd pic shows the vacuum switch which also cuts power to the auger if the exhaust blower dies or the venting clogs up with ash.
Here is a troubleshooting chart for testing some of us those switches: