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Some newer auger motor have updates such as ball bearing input shafts that last longer and needle bearings on the output shaft (the big shaft that connects to the auger) that are more rugged under heavy loads. These motors also have more magnets that provide greater torque (or force) to feed pellets properly and consistently at all heat levels. Greater torque also means less auger jams.
How to remove the old auger motor:
1. Remove either the back panel or side panel of the stove. It is usually the back panel. You may consult your owners manual to see which panel you'll need to remove. Check the exploded view or parts diagram that shows pictures of all the parts to see where the auger motor is located. Some stoves such as Englander stoves have two auger motors.
2. Next clean any rust surrounding the motor if there is any with a wire wheel. This will make it easier to remove the auger motor.
3. If your auger motor has a collar and set screw or bolt. Spray some PC Blaster on in the set screw or bolt to lubricate and make it easier to remove. Below is a picture of the lube I use.
4. Unclip the AC wires from the electromagnet of the motor on the back of the gearbox. If they are stuck, you may use long nose pliers.
5. Use an AC test cord to power the auger motor and rotate the shaft so that the set screw or bolt on the auger collar can be accessed easily from inside the stove. You may simply plug the test cord on the male clips on the electromagnet on the back of the gearbox. The picture below depicts an Allen wrench in position to unscrew a set screw.
6. Remove the motor using the appropriate tools. See the instructions below for removing set bolts and set screws or hitch pins.
a) If there is a collar on the auger shaft, you'll need to either use a socket set to remove the set bolts or an Allen wrench (Hex Key) to remove the set screws.
The bolt or set screw goes through the collar into a hole in the auger shaft. Englander stoves use set bolts. There is a head that juts out where a socket is used.
Most other stoves use set screws and an Allen wrench is used to remove them. Remove the bolt or set screw, press against the flat portion of the motor shaft, then pull the motor out.
b) If there is a hitch pin, you may use long nose pliers to remove it. The straight leg of the hitch pin a goes through the holes in the auger shaft and auger motor shaft. You may have to tap the end of the straight leg of the hitch pin with a hammer and screw driver to get it started, then you may pull it straight out with the pliers.
7. If the motor still seems stuck, carefully use a mini crowbar and a piece of wood. Tap it loose a bit at a time with just the right pressure.
Often the motor will come out without having to tap it out. I had one where the shaft broke off because of how jammed the auger was. In a couple of cases, the auger and the auger motor were stuck together. I had to separate them outside the stove. If the auger breaks then it must also be replaced.
Here's a picture of the auger motor now removed from the auger collar:
How to install the new auger motor:
1. Clip the AC wires onto the electromagnet of the motor on the back of the gearbox.
2. Once you clip the wires back on, use an AC cord to power the motor and rotate the flat side of the shaft of the new auger motor so that it is in the same position as the shaft of the old auger motor when it was removed from the stove.
3. a) If your auger motor attaches using an auger collar with a set bolt, use a socket to screw the bolt into the auger collar.
b) If your auger motor attaches using an auger collar with a set screw, use an Allen wrench to screw in the set screw.
c) If your auger motor attaches with a hitch pin, guide the straight leg of the hitch pin through into the holes in the auger and auger motor shaft. You may guide it using your fingers or long nose pliers. The curved leg goes over the auger shaft to hold it in place.
You are back in business!
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