November 15, 2020

Replace Your Pellet Stove Door Gasket in 6 Simple Steps Ensuring a Proper Seal and a Warm, Cozy Home

For optimum stove performance it is crucial to ensure a tight seal when you install the fire door gasket in your pellet stove. If it is not sealed properly, problems associated with air leaks such as vacuum error and a lazy flame could occur. Vacuum errors may prevent your pellet stove from starting up. Some pellet stoves, especially newer stoves, will display vacuum errors on your control panel. A pellet stove with a properly sealed door gasket will have a lively dancing flame, but a stove with an improperly installed gasket will not have a robust flame, the flame more still. I refer to this as a lazy flame and the stove will not heat your house as effectively. I always use a high quality graphite gasket when servicing pellet stoves and for my own stove at home. The reason I do not use the less expensive white gaskets is that sometimes they cause the door to stick to the stove due to a lack of lubrication. One of these came installed in one of my customers stoves and she could not open the fire door for cleaning. Here are some simple steps to properly install a fire door gasket in your wood pellet stove, ensuring a proper seal.

1. First employ the dollar bill test to see if you need to replace the gasket. Insert a dollar bill on the top of the door and then try to pull it out. If you can pull it out, it fails the test and you need a new gasket. Try this again on the bottom and the sides.
2. Pull off the old gasket, then using a drill with a wire wheel, remove all the old cement or silicone.
3. Apply new high temp orange or clear silicone. I prefer the clear silicone for looks.
4. Press in the new gasket and then cut length to ensure it comes out to the right length. If you try cutting without pressing it in first, the length won't be accurate enough.
5. Close the door and open it, then wipe off excess silicone.
6. Close the door and let it cure for an hour or so.

I've heard that some people wet the gasket prior to install. I don't recommend it. I don't think it would be good for the curing process. You may also want to replace the door glass gasket as well. In most stoves this must be done before installing the door rope gasket. Most pellet stoves use 11/16 inch wide flat tape gasket. Graphite impregnated recommended.

That's it! Your home will be warm and cozy.

December 17, 2019

What do I do if my pellet stove does not light up? 3 Key Causes You Should Look For

When your auto light pellet stove does not fire up, there can be many reasons and from my years of experience here is what I have found.

1. The igniter is Bad

The first thing that may come to mind is the igniter, after all it lights the pellets. This is easy to test but some tests may not reveal it is the problem.  It's helpful to know if the igniter tests bad, but occasionally the the igniter could have a good reading and still be bad.The igniter should read approx 50 ohms on an ohm meter. It should also read approximately 2 to 3 amps on a current meter.
I came across one instance where an igniter I tested read 47 ohms, a proper reading, but in the stove, it was causing the 6 amp control panel fuse to blow. When I plugged it into an AC outlet, the igniter smoked and one of the wires burned off, so I knew that igniter was bad. I have also seen cases in some stoves, especially ones with 400 watt igniters, where the igniter is weak and cannot light the pellets.

I came across one instance where an igniter I tested read 47 ohms, a proper reading, but in the stove, it was causing the 6 amp control panel fuse to blow. When I plugged it into an AC outlet, the igniter smoked and one of the wires burned off, so I knew that igniter was bad. I have also seen cases in some stoves, especially ones with 400 watt igniters, where the igniter is weak and cannot light the pellets.

2. Poor/ Limited Airflow Throughout the Stove
However, the igniter is often not the reason why the stove doesn't light. Another common cause is not enough air flowing through the stove to light the pellets.
Check for Blockage
You may start by checking the air inlet pipe and the outside air kit for blockages, but these are not the most easily clogged areas. Focus in on any blockages inside the stove down wind from the burn pot. This includes behind the baffles, inside the air chambers leading to the exhaust blower,
and the exhaust venting. Start by brushing all areas to loosen up the blockage. Then use an air compressor to clear the fire box and a leaf blower to suck out the exhaust pipe. Reaching those areas is crucial.

Check for Birds Nest
A birds nest trapped in the venting may also obstruct the airflow needed for ignition. This is common on installations where the exhaust venting termination cap is approximately 20 feet off the ground at bird height.
A preventative bird cap termination can be installed to completely alleviate this issue.

Check Exhaust/Combustion Blower and Control Board
If the exhaust or combustion blower is not spinning that would also limit airflow and may need replacement. Check this blower by plugging it into the AC wall outlet directly.
If the combustion blower works but does not come on right as the stove is turned on, then the control panel is suspect and may need replacement.

3. Pellets are Damp or Moist
After checking the other possibilities and finding the stove still won't light, then the issue may be damp pellets. If the pellets are damp or moist, they will not ignite. Always keep pellets in a dry place in your home. For pellets to ignite, there must be 35 parts air to 1 part fuel and the fuel must be low in moisture. When the wood or corn pellets are stored for an extended period, they may absorb moisture during a humid summer if stored in a damp basement or outside. Pellets that have damage with extreme moisture crumble and turn to mush, but sometimes they are not noticeably damp, but it is enough to prevent pellets from lighting.To help determine whether moist pellets are the issue, light the pellets manually with starting gel or hand sanitizer and see if the stove runs properly
Note: Corn has a much higher flash temperature than pellets so a 500 or 600 watt igniter and air pump is used in well designed multi-fuel stoves for this purpose. Other multi-fuel stoves state to use wood pellets for ignition.

 A bad igniter is commonly the reason why the stove doesn't light, but. not always. Running the proper tests will help determine the issue. The key issues that prevent a stove from lighting are moist pellets, a bad igniter, or poor airflow. Always store pellets in a dry place away from moisture or humidity. Check for blockages and birds nests that may prevent airflow. A combustion blower that won't spin or a faulty control board can also affect airflow. Having your stove professionally cleaned once or twice a year can help maintain proper airflow.

October 12, 2018

Which Burn Pot Liner is Correct for my Enviro Pellet Stove?

Buying pellet stove parts online is convenient. Just type "Enviro" and "burn pot liner." A quick search can find you just what you need.

But your search might return multiple results. Enviro EF2 burn pot liner, Enviro Maxx Burn pot liner, Enviro Windsor burn pot liner. You see a bunch of part numbers. You think to yourself, " I know I have an Enviro stove, but I'm not sure which model." This happens often. We've known customers who move into a new home that comes with a pellet stove, but the former owner doesn't tell them what their stove model is.

Do not go by just what the burn pot looks like in the photo. Some Enviro burn pots look similar, but come in different sizes.

If you have the stove manual, that's a great start. Often, those have a parts list or at the very least, they will tell you what model stove you have. All of our parts listings on East Coast Hearth state the stove model, so for example, if you know you are looking for a burn pot for Enviro Meridian, then you're all set.

But lets say, you don't have a manual. Getting a used stove can be a great value and it gives a great pellet stove a new home, but often the new stove owner doesn't receive a manual. The first place to check for the stove model is the back of the pellet stove. It also may be found underneath the hopper lid.

Occasionally, on an older stove, the lettering on the stove might be worn or hard to read. If you can't figure out which model Enviro stove you have, please contact We'd be happy to help. If you attach pictures of the front of the stove and the control panel, we can identify the model for you and send a link to the correct burn pot to order. You may also measure the dimensions of the burn pot and email them if you wish. We've serviced many Enviro stoves, so we've seen them all.

We've included a chart of burn pots liners, part numbers, and the stove models they fit below. Remember, some Enviro stove models have similar looking burn pot liners, but they are NOT identical. They cannot be used to substitute for each other. Make sure you identify the stove model or ask us. You may click on the pictures and part numbers to view product pages. Many of our product pages show the Enviro burn pot dimensions.


 Picture of Enviro Burn Pot Enviro Part Number Stove Models They Fit
High Ash Enviro Burn Pot Liner 50-587 50-258


Enviro Pellet Stoves:

  • EF2
  • EF3
  • Meridian
  • Windsor

Vistaflame Pellet Stove:

  • VF 100

Hudson River

  • Chatham
  • Davenport
  • Kinderhook
Enviro Omega Fire Pot/Burn Pot Liner 50-1693


Enviro Omega
Enviro EF5 SS Burn Fire Pot Liner High Ash- 50-961


Enviro EF5 Evolution
Enviro Empress FS Burn Pot/Firepot Liner 50-1365


Enviro Empress FS
Enviro Maxx Vista Flame VF170 Burn Fire Pot Liner


  • Enviro Maxx
  • Vistaflame VF170
Enviro Vista Flame M55 VF55 SS Burn Fire pot Liner 50-2042


  • Enviro M55
  • Vistflame VF55
Steel Burn Pot Liner Enviro EF4i-024 EF4 Solus


  • Enviro EF4
  • Solus
Enviro Mini-A Burn Pot Liner - 50-1923


  • Mini-A
  • Mini (if Upgragded with a Mini A burn pot)


September 06, 2018

How Fire Brick Insullates the Stove, Reducing Harmful Emissions & Producing Optimum Heat

The fire brick found in the back of the firebox of most wood and pellet stoves serves an important purpose. Fire brick helps optimize the stove's heat output and produces a cleaner burn, benefiting the environment. In many stoves fire brick also ensures proper heat flow. The fire brick insulates the heat inside the stove, reflecting the heat off the boards instead of letting it get absorbed by the stove walls. This increases the temperature inside the stove which transfers more heat through the heat exchanger so more heat comes out the front. This helps keep your room toasty.

For some pellet stoves, it is an intricate part of the design. Whitfield stoves for example, have an exhaust chamber behind the firewall where hot exhaust smoke travels. The fire brick encloses this chamber. Because the fire chamber doesn't have a wall of its own, the fire brick is an absolute must for the exhaust air to flow properly behind it. Without the fire brick, hot exhaust smoke would come back inside the firebox and not be channeled properly to the exhaust blower and venting.

The way fire brick insulates heat also reduces harmful emissions, benefiting the environment. It is actually one of the key reasons fire brick was developed. Back in the early 1970's there weren't any restrictions on emissions from wood or pellet stoves. That changed in 1988 when the EPA established
emissions standards. Engineers discovered that in order to achieve a cleaner burn, it was necessary to put firebrick in the combustion chamber to make it hotter. This insulates the heat inside the firebox, making it hot. Ideally, it creates a temperature of over 1000F. This burns more harmful particles in the smoke such as hydrocarbons so they are not released into the air.

Designing an area inside wood or pellet stoves that maintains sufficient heat for complete combustion required engineers to improve how stoves are insulated. Baffle boards and blanket insulation were invented for this purpose. Baffle boards are a type of rigid insulation such as fire brick, whereas Blanket Insulation is soft insulation behind the firewall in the back of the stove or behind a metal plate in the back of the firebox. Fire brick baffle boards have the benefit of not having to be installed behind something. They stand on their own, better deflecting heat off the stove walls. They can be made to look like real brick, which creates, a warm homey look.

Secondary combustion is when more warm air is introduced into an already high temperature zone or secondary chamber of the stove. Usually, the hot air comes through a combustor into the secondary chamber. Many modern wood stove manufacturers use catalytic combustors because they burn smoke at low temperatures, releasing chemicals to burn the smoke better, but most pellet stove manufacturers achieve a cleaner burn through higher combustion temperatures.  For pellet stoves it is not necessary to use a catalytic combustor because pellets do not include tree bark, so those impurities don't have to be removed.

Baffle boards or Firebrick were originally constructed of cast iron or actual brick, but these materials did not provide sufficient insulation to reach the high temperature required to achieve a
clean burn. Vermiculite based fiber insulating boards were then designed into many stoves. Now many stoves use ceramic boards.
Ceramic fiber boards can be used with stoves with fire temperatures as high as 2200F.

We sell the OEM as well as durable after market Fire-Tek fire brick

Superwool fiber for baffle boards is a customizable fire brick alternative if you have an older stove with discontinued parts or your stove didn't come with fire brick and you'd like to maximize combustion. It is available in different thicknesses, and can be custom cut. It has low bio-persistence and can with stand high heat like ceramic boards. There are examples of proper use in the link blow in the product pictures.

August 26, 2014

Door, Ash Pan, Glass, Hopper Lid Rope Gasket Maintenance & Why I Recommend Graphite Gaskets


I have replaced many rope gaskets while servicing stoves. These gaskets are important for keeping a pellet stove air tight for a lively flame and maximum heat. From my experience, after 3 or 4 years, these rope gaskets become frayed or hard and brittle and need replacement. These rope gaskets are used on the Fire Door, Ash Pan, Window Glass, and Hopper Lid. Round rope gasket is used for fire box doors and some ash pan doors. Door rope gaskets come in different diameters from 3/8" on Harman pellet stoves to 7/8" on large Travis stoves. These gaskets prevent room air from being sucked into the fire box. If they are not doing their job, the flame becomes lazy and won't provide as much heat. Flat rope gasket is used for ash pans, ash doors, hopper lids, and window glass. I always recommend premium quality graphite impregnated rope gaskets for best results. Here's why.

 I installed a brand new pellet stove using my prior experiences. I even watched an installation DVD to make sure I knew all the requirements for that specific stove. However, after a few days my customer called because the fire door was jammed. I had not expected this. I went back to figure out what happened. Using my screw driver, I carefully pried the fire door open. I had to try different angles before it finally budged. I found the standard white rope gasket that comes already installed on the door may stick and cause a door jam. The pellet stove I installed was brand new and I had not altered the door gasket in any way. Graphite impregnated gaskets won't cause this problem. Graphite is slick, which keeps the door from sticking. Since the graphite gasket won't stick, it won't get frayed from sticking to the door as it is opened and closed over time. For this reason, graphite gaskets last longer and may not need to be replaced as often. I still recommend to check them as you perform regular maintenance of course. See below for instructions on how to replace the door gasket.

You can find a graphite gasket for your stove by clicking here

It is also important to replace hopper lid and ash pan gaskets regularly. Hopper lid gaskets take flat rope gaskets often called Tape Gaskets. Hopper lid gaskets prevent air from being sucked into the hopper that could feed a hopper fire in a burn back situation. This problem is not common, but it can happen so it is best to take the necessary safety precautions. Check your hopper gasket if you have one and make sure it is not frayed, worn, hard, or brittle. If so then replace them.

Ash pan gaskets also use flat tape or flat rope gaskets. Some ash pans are open to the fire box, so a good seal is necessary to ensure a lively flame. A dollar bill test can be employed to check the door and ash pan gaskets. Open the door and lie a dollar bill across the gasket and latch the door shut. If you can still pull the bill out, this indicates a poor seal. This test should be repeated for all 4 sides of the door. Sometimes, the latch can be adjusted so the door shuts tighter. If the test still fails then the gasket should be changed.

Some flat gaskets come with tape that peels off the back. These can be used for replacing the window glass gaskets. They don't need to be replaced quite as often, but they do get frayed so they should be checked occasionally to ensure the fire door window glass is tightly sealed. If the glass breaks, they should be replaced along with the glass.

The door gasket can be replaced with just a few simple steps:

1. Pull out the old gasket. You can pry it with a screw driver if stuck.
2. Remove all glue and residue remaining from the old gasket with a wire brush or a wire wheel on your Dremel or drill driver.
3. Apply RTV high temperature silicone to the channel where new gasket will be installed. I prefer the way clear silicone looks..
4. Start laying in the new gasket. I prefer starting from the bottom corner on the side since it cannot be seen easily. Some manufacturers say to start in the middle, but from my experience the corner works best.
5. Close the door and latch it until it dries so the silicone sets up properly. You may also close the door on newspaper to ensure the silicone will not glue the door shut! I prefer to close the door and latch it, then open the door and wipe any excess silicone. This ensures the door will not be glued shut and is more professional because excess silicone stuck to newspaper is messy and difficult to clean up.

Always check your rope gaskets once a year for an optimum flame and safer heating season.

June 26, 2014

Normal Pellet Stove Operating Sounds VS Sounds That Indicate Faulty Components



As a pellet stove professional, I've found that identifying the sounds a stove makes or doesn't make is essential when diagnosing and fixing it. I always start by determining whether the sound in question is a normal operating sound. If you are the landlord or you are not the person who usually operates the stove, consult with the stove's user since that person will be most familiar with the stove's typical sounds. I have included a chart below that compares normal sounds to problematic ones. I'm going to share some tips on how to identify those sounds based on my experiences.

The other day, one of my customers said there was a strange squealing sound coming from the pellet stove while it was running. He asked me what it might be. After a thorough cleaning we restarted the stove and it made that sound again. The squealing happened intermittently, repeating every few seconds. Since the sound was repetitive and located in the center of the stove, I could identify the auger was making that sound. It squealed during a small part of it's 360 degree rotation. I gave the auger a complete servicing, which remedied the issue.

Listening to the sounds your stove makes can resolve many other issues. Doing so may help identify whether the exhaust or convection blower has gone bad. Another customer told me that the pellet stove sounded like a jet plane after it warmed up. Instantly, I knew  the convection blower was the issue since it is the only part that starts running after the stove heats up. The stove gets hot after the start up cycle finishes (approximately 15 minutes). Upon further inspection, I discovered it needed replacing because the bearings were bad. A different stove had a squealing noise that occurred right when the stove was turned on. It came from the left side of the stove where the exhaust blower was located. Of the two blowers, only the exhaust blower starts running right  away; therefore, replacing that part was the cure.

No noise at all can also indicate your stove's issue. I came across a unique issue when testing a stove. It ran for 5 minutes, then went silent. All of the lights on the control panel went out  he stove died. Having no sounds in this instance helped me pinpoint the AC line cord was the issue. After the stove got warm, one of the line connecters had failed. Replacing the line cord fixed it. Also, a multi-fuel stove I worked on didn't make a sound in the burn pot. After investigating, I found the rod connected to the pot stirrer motor was so loose it prevented the stirrer from turning.

  Listening to where the sound is coming from and, if possible, seeing the moving parts helps find problem areas. Knowing where the stove components are located is helpful as well. Determining whether an unusual sound occurs intermittently or constantly, or varies with the component's speed is valuable information. If the sound happens promptly as the stove starts, then the faulty component could be the combustion (exhaust) blower,  auger, or auger motor. If the sound is heard after the startup cycle, then the faulty component could be the convection (room) blower. Once you identify the part in need of potential replacement, I recommend using an AC test cord and multi-tester to test this component for abnormal sounds.   Sometimes, the noise only occurs when the stove is hot so a test fire is always needed to complete the analysis or assure the repair has been made. I always give the stove a complete cleaning and lubrication first, then perform the test fire.


  Fire pot or Burn Pot  
 Normal operating sounds
As pellets slide or are pushed into the fire pot a clinking sound can be heard.
  Bottom feed stoves that have an automatic slide plate or rotating disk have a louder clinking sound when pellets fall into the auger flight chute.
  In Mult-fuel stoves there may be a sound of a turning pot stirrer and motor connected to it.



Sounds that indicate wear or failure Reason Cure
A, No sound, especially if pelletsare not coming into the fire pot and the fire
dies out
B. Grinding sound
A, Auger motor not turning
     See reason below under auger motor.
B. Pot stirrer
   1. Stirrer bearing needs lubrication.
   2. Stirrer motor is failing or needs lubrication
A. Replace Auger motor.
B. lubricate or replace Pot Stirrer or Stirrer Motor.
 Auger or pellet feed motor
 Normal operating sounds
When the auger feeds pellets into the burn pot you can hear the intermittent sound of the auger turning and the buzz of the auger motor running.




Sounds that indicate wear or failure  Reason



  A. No sound especially pellets are not feeding into the fire pot. You may also see that the auger motor's shaft is not turning at all.
  B. Load scratchy sound of the auger motor bearings rubbing and failing.
  C A loud squeal or grinding noise as the auger hits one spot in it's 360 Degree rotation.
A. Auger is not turning
       1. High limit snap disc failed or tripped.
       2. Vacuum switch failed or hose clogged.
       3. Bad connection to control panel or auger timing module. 
            Check spade clips on auger motor wires by unplugging and plugging back in.
          Also check connectors on snap discs and vacuum switch.
       4. Control panel is bad. If all other components are good then the panel maybe bad. 
            Put a volt meter on the auger leads when stove is running to see if there is 120 VAC on it intermittently.
       5. Auger motor heat failure when stove gets hot.
       6. Proof or fire snap disc or heat sensor or thermocouple failed.
B.  Black Carbon on the Auger or inside the auger chute. Maybe due to bad pellets.
      Maybe a burr on the shaft or tube.
C. The Auger bearing may need more grease or lubrication.


A. Clean or Replace Part(s) as follows:
     1. Clean or replace hi limit snap disc.
      2. Replace Vacuum switch or clean or replace clogged hose.
      3. Clean or replace quick disconnect spade lugs.
     4. Replace circuit board or control panel.
     5. Replace tired auger motor with worn gears or coil laminations that have broken down to cause loss in torque.
     6. Clean or replace proof of fire snap disc or thermocouple or heat sensor maybe loose or need replacement.
B. Grease or replace worn or missing auger bearings.
     Upgrade brass bearing to Nylatron if possible.
C. Remove auger and clean with a wire wheel on a drill/driver.
     Also using a grinding stone, grind down any burrs or splattered pimples of slag from sloppy welding
 Thermostatic Switch (Snap Discs) 
 Normal operating sounds
These parts can make a clicking sound as the bi-metal switch opens and closes.
Some of these snap discs are used to turn the pellet stove convection blower on and off. 


Sounds that indicate wear or failure Reason Cure
No sound, especially if convection blower never turns on. (No heat blowing out the front of the stove).  Failed Snap Disc Replace Disc
 Heat Exchanger Tubes
Normal operating sounds
The rush of air being forced though the Heat Exchanger Tubes.
Sounds that indicate wear or failure
No Sound
 Bad Low Limit Switch or Bad Convection Blower

 Replace Low Limit Switch or Replace

Convection Blower

Convection blower or Room blower
Normal operating sounds
The modern high efficiency blower may have a slight hum or pulsating sound that increases as the blower speeds up.
The rush of air from the flow of heated room air through the heat exchanger tubes or plenum drawn by the squirrel cage blades.
 Sounds that indicate wear or failure
A. A loud hum especially when the blades do not turn. 
B. The squeak and squeal of the bearings failing. Also sounds like metal rubbing against metal
A. Squirrel cage not turning 
   1. Blades so full of dust or pet hair, the Squirrel cage does not turn.
   2. Shorted motor coil windings that reduce the electromagnetic field so much the squirrel cage does not turn.
B. Blower motor
   1. Bearings re worn or have little grease or lubrication.
A. Replace Blower
B. Grease or replace motor bearings.
     If they are sealed then replace blower.
Exhaust blower (Combustion blower) or draft blower
Normal operating sounds
The modern high efficiency blower may have a slight hum or pulsating sound that increases as the blower speeds up.
The rush of air from the flow of exhaust gases through the ash chambers drawn by the impeller blades.
 Sounds that indicate wear or failure
 A. A loud hum especially when the impeller blades do not turn. 
 B. The squeak and squeal of the bearings failing. Also sounds like metal rubbing against metal.
C. Sometimes an annoying whine can be heard that gets louder as the speed increases
A. Impeller blades not turning 
   1. Blades so full of dust or pet hair, the Squirrel cage does not turn.
   2. Shorted motor coil windings that reduce the electromagnetic field so much the squirrel cage does not turn
B. Blower motor
   1. Bearings are worn or have little grease or lubrication
C. Closed frame motor case is loose or just out of synchronization
A. Replace Exhaust Blower
B. Grease or replace motor bearings.
     If they are sealed then replace blower.
C. Replace closed frame blower with upgraded C-Frame or open frame blower.

March 09, 2014

Wi-Fi T-Stat for a Wood Pellet Stove - Ecobee EB-Stat-02 Detail w/Install Pics


Do you want the best Wi-Fi Thermostat that easily connects to your wood pellet stove or any heating type of furnace?

Here is the new Ecobee EB-Stat-02 with free dowloadable app for your smart phone. :)

The install can be smooth if the install location is known and the wiring length is planned out.

This T-Stat is one of the very few that is not only 24 volt but also can be used on a Milli-Volt system with the optional AC adapter!

The Install outlined and pictured below was done on an Enviro Hampton GC-60 but will work on any pellet stove with a standard T-Stat hookup on the control panel. Most newer stoves with digital control panels will except this T-Stat. This T-Stat does have the short cycle delay needed to give the pellet stove time to turn on or off properly.

 Most newer models of the following stoves will work such as:

Enviro, Regency, Avalon, Lopi, Breckwell, Whitfield, Napoleon (NPS-45 or NPI-45), Hudson River, Magnum, US Stove, Pelpro, Glow Boy, Englander, Archgard, Osburn, Enerzone

 Install steps.
0. Turn off the stove or heating appliance and unplug it.

1. Choose the location and mount the control unit near an AC outlet if possible.
Use wall anchors or wood screws.
If you have the optional remote module, mount that into the control unit first.
Not too close to the stove but not too far away maybe ideal

2. Mount the Head at the normal height on the wall approx 5 feet off the floor.

3. Run 4 conductor solid jacketed wire from the control.
If using hide channel like I did mount that on the wall first.
I used 5 cond. T-Stat wire from Lowes

4. Connect female spade lugs on the regular 2 cond T-Stat wire and plug into stove.
Run wire to RH and W on the control box.

5. Plug control box into the wall.

6. Run the Install wizard on the T-Stat touch screen to choose your Wi-Fi router name and lock it in.

7. On your Iphone
Download and install the Ecobee Smart Stat app from the App store.
Don't forget your apple Appstore password. :)

8. Set stove to either Auto-On/Off or Auto-Hi/Low

Now you can either setup a daily program schedule for your stove or put the set temp on hold and change the set temperature up or down to what you desire from anywhere in the world.

Yes, it does have the short cycle delay for the pellet stove.
What I like is the button for the weather forecast and the optional remote module for additional sensors. Also what you see on the wall stat is also what you see on your smart phone!
1. Indoor sensor
2. Outdoor sensor
3. Humidity sensor
4. CO2 Sensor

Cool Stat for a pellet stove!

See pictures below.

Pic 1 - Control Unit with T-stat head

Pic 2 - Inside T-Stat head shows button battery for memory

Pic 3 - T-Stat head mounted on wall with wire hide channel

Pic 4 - T-Stat connection on stove with two female spade clips on wire

Pic 5 - T-Stat on wall shows current room temperature

Pic 6 - Multi-Fuel pellet stove with yellow arrows showing wire in hide channel

Pic 7 - T-Stat smart phone app on Iphone same display as wall unit.

Pic 8 - Control module mounted out of sight in lower corner on wall next to AC outlet.


September 23, 2013

Pellet Stove Evolution & Parts Replacing





A pellet stove is a modern heating appliance that uses sawdust compressed into wood pellets, a very green renewable and inexpensive fuel. True multi-fuel stoves use a burn pot stirring rod that keeps ash, especially corn ash from fusing together. These stoves burn compressed wood pellets, corn, soy beans, cherry pits, olive pits, bio mass fuel grains and processed silage with only a few simple adjustments.

  Some early units are a hybrid design, reincarnating some wood stove features. Like a wood stove, these models have a top 6 inch flue pipe and use natural drafting. However, sawdust woo
d pellets need a strong air flow to keep them burning. Initial designs sometimes have a positive draft blower connected to the intake air pipe to force room air through the pot of wood pellets to burn them completely. Many of these stoves are heavy steel and cast iron, which radiates heat.  They also have a convection or room blower to circulate the room air in from the back of the stove, across the top of the fire box to gain heat and out the front. This results in a a very warm room. 




  A good example of this type of stove is the Englander 25-PFS. This stove has 2 - 140 CFM convection blowers mounted high on the back of the fire box to push as much room air as possible through the stove. The user controls are fairly simple. They include a rotary knob with 4 to 5 heat levels that release 1.0 to 5.0 lbs of pellets per hour into the burn pot depending on the setting. The controls also include a simple 2 to 3 speed rocker switch or rotary knob for setting the room blower speeds and an On/Off switch. Adjusting these controls is tricky and care must be taken in order to not overfire the stove. Overfiring occurs when the heat level is set high and the convection fan is not set high enough to keep the internal stove temperature down. This is one reason that there are safety devices to prevent a fire. Other safety measures use snap discs, vacuum switches and overload circuitry to prevent fires when the convection blower or combustion blower fails. These stoves are started by adding a handful of pellets into the burn pot and topped with starting gel, then lit with a match. These early units are not as efficient but still provide good heat without chopping and stacking a lot of wood. Also since wood pellets do not contain bark, they burn much more cleanly.

 Modern units now have many more features plus more efficient designs. Most newer designs unlike the early models, have an exhaust blower at the end of the combustion air path in the stove just before the hot air enters the pellet vent pipe. Since these combustion blowers pull in clean air and have hot air containing pellet ash traveling through them, they are more rugged and better sealed to prevent ash from being released and ruining their bearings. To be more efficient, the burn air comes in from the outside of the house using an OAK (Outside Air Kit). In this manner, warm room air is no longer wasted by sending it up the chimney. The design of the convection blower path for warming room air is much more efficient now. A convection blower anywhere from 165 CFM to 265 CFM is employed and mounted low in the back of stove. This creates a long path around the fire box and out the front through a heat exhanger mounted over the fire box consisting of tubes or accordian type plenum that Harman stoves employ. The user controls are much more sophisticated. They incorporate multi-layer circuit boards with LEDs to display the heat and fan settings. These boards also control the fan speeds in conjunction with the heat levels so overfiring cannot occur. The newer stoves have all needed safety devices that prevent overfiring due to part failure. These devices are bi-metal thermo switches called snap discs and either open or close at a designated temperature or a thermocouple connected to the control board. These safety devices stop the auger from feeding pellets which will put out the fire when an unsafe condition occurs. New features include larger hoppers that hold more pellets and larger ash pans to hold more ash. Top or bottom feed auger systems that deliver the pellets from the hopper to the burn pot have been improved to prevent auger jams.

 All pellet stoves have internal moving parts that can fail and may need replacement. The interior of the stove has 110 volt shock hazzards and very sensitive solid state parts that can short out easily so care and experience is needed. Always unplug the unit before replacing parts.

Below is a list of some parts and when they may need replacing:

Door and window gaskets get old, frayed then get brittle and break. If the flame gets lazy the door and window gaskets become leaky which causes poor heating performance.

Hopper gaskets get old, frayed then get brittle and break and let air in the hopper that can feed a hopper fire or back burn.

Ash pan gaskets get old, frayed then get brittle and break and let air in that can cause a lazy flame and poor heating performance

Ignitors wear out as it may take longer than 4-8 mins to light the pellets or on some startups, they may not light.

Auger motors get sluggish and also may skip which means the gears in the gear box are stripped.

Convection and Combustion blowers may become noisy, cease and not turn at all, or if the windings are bad the fan blades may need a push to get going.

Control boards or panels can get suffer damage from AC line surges and get flakey or intermittent. This can cause pellet overfeeding, the triacs can fail so the devices they control (Blowers, auger motor and ignitor) will stay on or not work at all. The power button may not be able to turn the stove on anymore.

Snap discs are temperature sensing bi-metal strips that open or close at the designed temperature so when they fail thet either stay open or remain closed.

Vacuum switches close when they sense firebox vacuum pressure or exhaust blower pressure and will not change state when pressure is applied.

Firebox door and hopper safety switches fail and stop the auger from turning which makes the fire go out.



September 20, 2013

Pellet Stove School is in Session


Pellet Stove School is in session and you can learn from the master. There is a certain amount of care the goes into maintaining a pellet stove, but it it's worth it. I don't just sell pellet stoves after all, I use one in my own home. I wouldn't sell something I wouldn't use myself. It heats my whole house and is much cheaper than oil.


Let me share my expertise. I love to talk pellet stoves. I just love it! I'll be your teacher and you'll get tips on parts replacing, how stoves work, news, and more!